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Senjin Aleste by M2 is classic shmup action!

I was at the Gunma Leisure Land game center north of Takasaki Station on a Saturday morning with plenty of kill since I wasn’t with the female family units and I played Senjin Aleste. I played this game last summer at a game center in Iida, Nagano Prefecture. I really love this game and I want M2 to release this on Steam, Switch, and Playstation. It’s been a few years already. What are they waiting for?

I totally love M2. They really know how to make neo-retro games. This game is 100% pixel graphics! It plays a lot like Blazing Lazers and Space Megaforce. You select a character, one of four girls. But really you end up playing them all as a team so you are just selecting the one to start with.

Each girl pilots her own ship, each with different weapons styles. There’s a Japanese girl Yuri Kunugi (Type-A), an ambiguous girl Ratna Francis (Type-B), a Slavic/Japanese girl Tanya Yaezakura (Type-C), and a Chinese girl Huang Kexin (Type-D). The Type-A is like a Dodonpachi-style fighter with orbiters that circle around the nose. Type-B has orbiters that fire in the direction you want them to. Type-C is more of a spread-shot. Type-D, the pudgy Chinese girl with glasses and big tits, has orbiters which fire ring lasers in 360 degrees. She really wrecks bosses, so I liked to try to save her for the end of the level.

A ring builds around your ship over time. Pressing a button will push back enemy bullets within that ring momentarily, hopefully enough for you to move out of the way. Destroying enemies give you P powerups, which gradually make your weapons stronger.

You have three buttons: your shot (which you can either rapid fire by mashing it or a focused attack by holding it down), the ring defense to escape incoming bullets, and a bomb that is actually weak. Picking up a Bomb powerup provides a much stronger bomb, so don’t hesitate to nab those when the screen is filled with badguys.

When you pick up a bomb icon, the bomb auto-activates. The four ships are A, B, C, D. Collecting any of these letter powerups will change you to that girl. When a girl gets shot down, she will slowly regenerate her ship. If all four are hit before any of them can repair, it’s game over. So the 4 girls are like a tag team.

Look how the fighters streak off at the end of a level! That’s exactly like Super Aleste/Space Megaforce on the SFC/SNES! It was a bit hard to play one-handed while holding my camera to take some quick pictures, so the focus isn’t the best. Sorry. If you don’t like it, you can lick me where I pee.

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Turning my old Raspberry Pi 4 into a dedicated RetroPie system

My friend Ryan built me a Raspberry Pi 5 with 16gb of RAM last year. He sent it to my dad’s home and I acquired it there when I visited in August. I had been using my Pi 4 (4gb of RAM) as a portable desktop. Once I installed Raspberry OS on my Pi 5, it blew me away how quickly it loads! It is very nice to use.

Since I no longer need to use my Pi 4 as a portable desktop, I decided to turn it into a dedicated RetroPie unit. I haven’t had a dedicated RetroPie since I sent my Pi 3 to my friend Gary.

So here it is after it booted up, before any roms were added. I had to install emulators, BIOS files, the config files, and the downloaded images of the games’ covers and such. The Saturn emulator for RetroPie on a Raspberry Pi isn’t worth using. The ARM architecture cannot handle it, while the x86 architecture of my desktop can run a RetroPie Saturn emulator just fine.

At first I figured that a 32mb SD card would be enough space to install everything I wanted, but considering that I have several CD-based games for the Turbo Duo and Mega CD, I was not able to copy over all the games I wanted to. I went to Yamada Denki and bought a 128gb SD card and started over.

It’s not enough to just install the emulators and copy the roms over to their respective folders. The Retroarch controller config files as well as the game lists and game photos from the game data scrapers should also be copied to the RasPi’s new SD card. Here’s a list of what I made sure I copied over to the SD card:

  • home/RetroPie/BIOS -> Where any necessary BIOS files go, of course.
  • home/RetroPie/roms -> The actual games, duh.
  • opt/retropie/configs/all/emulationstation/downloaded_images -> When you scrape the games’ covers and such, this is where those images are stored for each console.
  • opt/retropie/configs/all/emulationstation/gamelists -> The info you’ve scraped with the games’ descriptions. Those downloaded images don’t mean a thing without these files!
  • opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch/autoconfig ->This is where your controller configuration files are stored. Of course, you could just configure your controllers from scratch, but since I had to manually edit the config file for my Mayflash Sega Saturn converter, conserving this file is a must! On a Saturn pad, the LB and RB buttons become the Z and C buttons respectively, and since there is no Select button, I had to change how the menu is loaded in-game so as not to exit the game every time I pressed the Start button!

Once all those files were transferred over, it was time to test it out. I didn’t like how there was a black border on this 16:9 monitor, which made the game screens smaller. What the heck?

Here’s what I did. I set it to a resolution of 16:9 60fps and then with this “underscan” option I removed that dumb black border.

The scraped data is all there now.

Tron. I’ll have to edit the game’s input configuration. This game is always awkward to play emulated because the arcade game had both a joystick and knob.

1944: The Loop Master. Once I add a CRT shader for the screen, I’ll be all set.

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My modeling workbench setup at the in-laws’ place

My home away from home, we’ve had our own room at the in-laws’ place in Nagano Prefecture ever since Mayu’s grandfather passed away. Years ago, I commandeered an unused table and set it up as a modeling workbench in front of the TV. The blue zaisu (floor chair) is partially busted. I’ve had it ever since our apartment when we lived in Himeji. I have some tools and supplies I keep there. I’d posted earlier about Japanese modeling setups, so here is my secondary modeling workbench.

This neat holder for glue bottles and paint brushes was 3D printed. SMKR gave it to me as a gift several years ago, and it is perfect for this little modeling setup.

Tamiya’s enamel, acrylic, and lacquer thinners, toothpicks, ceramic paint trays, plus a bottle of Mr. Base White 1000.

I keep a bunch of modeling crap in the drawer. Sandpaper, tweezers, scissors, paint trays, etc. My nippers here are from a Taiwanese company and I got them when I worked for Aoshima 10 years ago.

I keep a Tamiya work apron here too.

I bought a cheap region-free DVD player on YAJ and it’s there for the TV whenever I want to use it. The TV doesn’t have the best hi-def resolution, but I’m not gonna complain. It actually has S-Video inputs in case I ever want to hook up a retro console to it. The last time we stayed here, I had my hacked SFC Mini console hooked up to the TV. Usually I have either my laptop or Raspberry Pi set up on this table.

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Update on my old Bandai/Imai Macross Glaug kit

It was a quiet weekend at home, and on Sunday while I was following the events of yet another attempted presidential assassination by the “tolerant left,” I finally got around to resuming work on my old 1:100 Glaug kit I started working on last summer at the in-laws’ place while on vacation. I sort of lost track of this build for several months. I’m pretty good at starting new kits and losing track of them.

I’m inserting Wave’s ball joints to add better articulation for the shoulders and the hips. While this kit does have plastic-on-plastic swivel joints, Adding ball joints should improve mobility and allow the legs to be splayed for more natural poses. I’ve sanded down the dome-shaped protrusions and intend to replace them with Wave H-Eyes lenses. I’ve also taken a mold of the mono-eye. I plan to cut out that plastic, attach the mold, and backfill it from the inside with clear UV resin. I did this with the old Bandai/Imai Q-Rau kit.

I thought that I’d buy some more of these Wave ball joint sets, but when I looked online I saw that several of them are sold out! I can still get the BJ-05 set, and I ordered a couple from Yodobashi Camera. But I couldn’t find the BJ-04 and some other sets anywhere!

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Nearly finished with my Bubblegum Crisis Priss sofubi figure!

I’m excited about this! I bought this Priss sofubi kit soon after I moved to Japan. I posted unboxing photos of this kit on my Tumblr account 11 years ago. I didn’t pay much for it at the time, but since then the price for sofubi kits have increased considerably. I began working on this kit a year ago and I like how it is turning out.

 I’ve painted her entirely with sofubi paints. mostly V-Color but also I’ve used the new, water-based Mr. Hobby Sofubi Color for the metallic black parts. The metallic blue color of her hardsuit is a mixture of silver, clear blue, and a bit of regular blue V-Color paints. It looks so beautiful.

I finished painting her eyes last week, using acrylic paints. (She has red eyes in the anime, so this isn’t a case of my color-blindness causing me to make a mistake). I added a bit of white to the red paint to one side of her irises to give them two tones, then painted the black pupils, and finally the light spots.

Unlike other sofubi kits I’ve made, this one is made to be semi-poseable. Her arms pop into sockets and her legs can swivel at the thighs. Her heads can pop in and out, and I’ve employed magnets to make this easier. Her regular face is sculpted with her neck together, but her helmet has the head and neck as separate pieces. I have magnets in there to make her head movable.

I’ve since done a panel line wash using Turner Acryl Gouache black paint with Mr. Hobby Weathering Paint Gouache Solvent. All that’s left is the final assembly at this point.

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Update on my 30 Minutes Sisters customized Luluce build

Over a year ago, I posted about how I bought Luluce with Option Body Parts A03 (color C) and some optional hair styles. I had some leftover skin color from a Shantae garage kit I built a few years ago to give her a darker, sexier skintone (in my opinion), so I used this and did some shading with burnt umber Faber Castell and artist’s chalk for her breasts and butt. I was lucky to find a set of the official 30MS eye waterslide decals, which I don’t see often. Her hair color is Mr. Color Lascivus Aura CL103 Black Hair with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color Black for shading. I sealed these with a flat coat. The rest of the parts are the original plastic. Her “assault rifle” is made by a company called Yamada, which I bought at a Seria 100 yen shop.

I want to work on her underboobs a bit more, because the shading I did is a bit too dark. I’ll pop that piece off and see what I can do.

I bought this bikini-like body parts set when I was nerd shopping with my friend Lou in March. I haven’t been able to find the bare legs and arms sets at any hobby stores, so I will probably buy a set on Yahoo Auctions Japan.

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An observation on the movie “The Car”

My wife and I rented “The Car” and watched it today. I hadn’t seen that movie in a very long time. Our daughter asked what the movie’s about. I said, “It’s like ‘Jaws,’ but there’s no ocean, and it’s a car instead of a shark.”
“Then it’s nothing like ‘Jaws.'”
Pshuh! Shows how much you know, kid.